Gruaud Larose 1986

There seems to be no doubt about the quality of the 1986 Gruaud-Larose, which in 20 years should rival the extraordinary 1990, 1982, 1961, 1949, and 1928 made at this vast estate. From the first time I tasted this wine in cask, I have thought it to be among the blockbusters of the vintage. It has a black/purple color, mammoth structure, a fabulous wealth of fruit, and a finish that seems to last several minutes. This is indeed first-growth quality, but then, when, in the last decade, has a Gruaud-Larose not matched the quality of the first-growths? Given the enormous structure, impressive concentration, and massive tannins, one must wonder when this wine will be ready to drink. That may preclude a number of consumers from actually deciding to buy it. For many readers, this is probably a wine to lay down for their children, rather than for them to realistically consider drinking in their own lifetimes.