Dom Perignon 1966

This perfectly conserved bottle of the 1966 Dom Pérignon showed some wispy carbon dioxide on opening, which is always a positive sign, and revealed a rich and tertiary bouquet of dried fruits, mocha, toasted nuts and saffron. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with considerable muscle and concentration, a vestigial mousse and a bright spine of structuring acidity. Though this original disgorgement is tiring, there’s still no fraying on the finish. While in 750-milliliter bottles, the 1966 Dom Pérignon seems to be in gentle decline, at least based on the last few bottles I have encountered, magnums—or anything stored in a glacial cellar—might still be very interesting indeed.